Surf in Peniche

Shelter from almost any wind comes down to geometry. The south side of the isthmus faces south-west: Supertubos, the heavy, hollow sandbar break that has been a regular WSL Championship Tour venue since 2009, likes west to south-west swell with north or north-east wind, so it can stay clean when the summer north wind blows, if there is swell. Beside the harbour wall at the top of that beach, Molhe Leste is a fast right that needs a big swell to wrap in but sits in the lee of northerly wind; the local crew is strong.

Further south, Consolação has softer sandy peaks at its northern end and a rocky right point to the south for experienced surfers. On the north side, the long arc of Baleal is sheltered from the biggest west swells and is where most schools teach, with offshore wind from the south-east. Lagide, just east of Baleal, is a reef with a long left for intermediates and up, best on a rising mid tide with north-north-west swell and southerly wind; watch for rocks and urchins. Autumn brings the best mix of swell and morning offshores, winter the heaviest surf, and summer smaller waves for learners. Crowds are real at every named break.

Supertubos is the headline shot. The beach faces west-south-west, so in the morning the sun is behind you and lights the barrels, while late afternoon turns backlit as the sun drops over the sea. The peaks break close to the sand, so 200–600 mm from the beach is plenty; during the WSL event the contest zone gets busy.

Baleal's bay faces north-north-west, which keeps the sun behind or beside you for most of the day, a forgiving place for lesson and longboard shots with 100–400 mm, and the rocks at the edge of Baleal island give a slightly raised angle. At Lagide you can shoot from the shore right beside the reef, with the sun behind you through the middle of the day. Water shooting is easy on small days in Baleal; at Supertubos it means heavy shorebreak and is for experienced swimmers only.

Peniche is about 90 km north of Lisbon, around 1 h 15 min by car via the A8 and IP6, and express buses run from Lisbon's Sete Rios terminal. A car or bike makes it easy to switch sides: Supertubos is a few minutes south of the town and Baleal about ten minutes north. Most beaches have parking, which gets busy in summer and during the WSL event. Surf schools, shops, rentals and accommodation are spread across Peniche, Baleal and Consolação.